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Thursday, September 30, 2010

Eco-Friendly Photo Albums Don't Damage Pictures

When I was a small boy back in the 50s, I remember my parents periodically bringing out the ugly old black photo albums with the ancient black-and-white photos of their parents, grandparents, and others surrounded by Model T's. and wearing funny clothes like on Little House on the Prairie. They were all held in place by little black stick-on corners, but the pictuers looked like new. Then, we got modern, and things changed.

For years now, we of the modern age have been blissfully putting our photos in albums with plastic pages, Now we are finding that the photos, over a period of years, are being damaged by something in the plastic called polyvinyl chlorides, or PVCs. These chemicals drain the colors from the photos over the years, which is really tragic, since many of the pictures we have in albums stashed away all over our homes are unable to be replaced with an on-file negative. Sure, they can be taken to a camera store, and restored one by one, but the cost for that would become outrageous very quickly.

So, what can be done? There are several routes to take, but both require quick action. One is to move the photos to albums which verify that their pages are photo safe, that is, free of polyvinyl chlorides, while the other is to look for albums which have paper pages. None of this is very fun, but once the work is done, it will ensure that your photos will be safe for generations to come.

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Networking For Photographers

This article is not about geeky language on how to set up a network for your computer!!! It is how to set up a network for your business. You've probably heard this a million times "It's not what you know, it's who you know." This is so true in today's interconnected society and is true more than ever.

No matter how brilliant you are at photography, this will not take you anywhere if no one knows about you and your business. There are two ways to network:

1. do it yourself by investing your time & energy
2. pay someone to do it

Well most small businesses (not only photography ones) do not hire professional help for marketing & PR. We all try and do our best within our resources to do the best we can for our business. So here are some tips for you to get started:

Social Network

I cannot stress how important it is to build your social network. No I am not talking about Twitter and Facebook, but meeting people, getting in touch, keeping in touch with old contacts, reaching out and letting them know what you are up to. Go to seminars, conferences, etc which is related to your industry and meet like-minded people. Always always keep your business cards on you at all times, you never know who you meet. For us photographers, devices like the iPhone, iPod and iPad are heaven sent, these are not boys toys & gadgets (I tell this to my wife all the time!!!), they are work tools ideal to carry your portfolio to show off to anyone at anytime. Going out for lunch, drink, beer or coffee is really good for catching up on a casual level. As you network, you will know that some people are really good at networking and they know a lot of people. You will benefit immensely from getting to know this person well as he/she will introduce you to others.

So if you are an introvert, have problems with meeting people, being shy, not good in public, horrible at chit-chat and gossip, then find an extrovert who will help you get connected with others. Networking is not a nuisance or time wasting, it is an investment. Imagine if you could always find what you need in just 1 or may be 2 phone calls or emails! If you are well connected you probably can. By investing time building up your network, you save a lot of time when you need things to get done. If you know the right people, you will not waste any time buying leads or sending out random emails in the hope of finding a solution to your problem.

If you don't ask you don't get...

If you need something and are asking someone for a favour or help, do not apologise. It may signal a lack of confidence and professionalism. There is nothing to be sorry about - you are just seeing if anyone happens to be in a position to help you out. You are not making any kinds of demands or forcing anyone to do anything that they don't want to do!

If you are new to Social Networking, you may ask where do I start? Social Networking over the years has evolved to become a great business networking tool as well. You need to have a strategy for an online and an offline network. Online networking is good in the way that most of it can be done for free! Using sites like Twitter, Facebook, LinkedIn, Myspace and many many more, you can truly reach a global audience and network with like minded people or those who may be interested in you, your service or products. At many of my seminars / workshops, I hear this a lot "I do not have time for Twitter, Facebook is for kids and so " Well all I would like to say to those is there is a big party going on out there and you are missing all the fun!

Keep in touch

Don't get someone's business card or email address and don't do anything with it. Find a way or a reason to stay in touch. If you know the person's birthday or wedding anniversary, you have a perfect excuse to keeping in touch. Send them a card with a voucher or invite them for a portrait session, etc.

Do It Regularly

Don't give up after attending one event or meeting with one person thinking it was a waste of time. Networking works and does take time, sometimes even 6 months or so before someone even remembers your name. This is why organisations like BNI, Athena, etc regularly meet up. Even at silly o'clock in the morning, people make the effort to go and attend weekly or monthly. The results will show and prove that making such efforts is fruitful in the long run.

Networking with Local Businesses

I rather network with a small local company than a big multi-national which is in Timbuktu! This is my personal view only. Local companies will give you referrals which are local to you. I spend less time traveling and have more time for my family.

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Photoshop Photo Effects - Photo Edge Burn Effect

What is Edge Burning?

In traditional darkroom printing, especially in black and white, the enlarger systems used often suffered from 'fall off' (the light in the centre of an image was brighter than at the edges hence the centre of the print always had a lighter area around it.) The same is true of cameras; the camera image is brighter in the centre than at the edges. This is most evident with really wide-angle lenses but is present to some extent for all lenses.

This is commonly called 'fall off' and if you want to get really technical it can be calculated using the Cos4θ rule of trigonometry but I digress. As a rule of thumb, most lenses lose about 1/3 to 1/2 a stop of light at the edges of the image compared to the centre.

So, to compensate for negatives and enlarger problems of fall off, most expert printers use edge burning to balance the tonal difference between the centre and edge of the print. Edge burning is simply adding more tone to the edges of the image. In printing it was usual to add about 10% additional exposure time for each of the edges.

Edge Burn and Composition

Now, edge burning has another important effect and that is to do with visual perception and not deficiencies in photography. When you darken the edges of an image it holds the viewers attention into the picture and prevents the eye straying beyond the boundaries of the print or image. This is a subtle technique for concentrating attention inside the image borders.

Inner Glow to Edge Burn in one easy lesson.

One day it dawned on me that the 'inner glow' layer effect in Photoshop produces an 'edge lightening' around the four sides of an image and although this is the exact opposite of the desired edge burn, it got my brain cells sparking so I dove into the Inner Glow dialog to see what gives.

My easy Photoshop edge burn effect just needs you to change the settings for the Color, the Blend mode, and usually the Size values in the Inner Glow dialog and there you have an edge burn. Change the colour to black, the Blend Mode to Multiply, and the Size value for the width of edge burn you want.

The Opacity value can be modified down to around 5-15% depending on how obvious or subtle you want the effect to be. Sometimes I use higher values to make the edge burn very obvious and then it becomes part of the image composition and mood.

You can only apply the layer effect to a real layer (not the background so convert it to a layer) and sometimes you will need to add a new layer filled with white and blend mode set to 'Multiply' at the top of the stack to add the effect to for the best results.

There you have a very easy and controllable method of quickly adding edge burn to an image. Please note, although there is a Photoshop layer effect called 'Inner Shadow' which you may think does the edge burning job; it doesn't! This is because the Inner Shadow effect only applies the effect to two sides of the image to create a shadow and not an edge burn on all four sides.

How To Become A Good Wedding Photographer And Start Your Own Wedding Photography Business

Have you recently taken photography as a hobby? Did you finish a photography seminar or photo workshop on how to use a digital camera? Did you just buy yourself the latest digital camera of Canon or Nikon?  Do you have friends who keep on telling you how good you are taking pictures? Are you a people person? Do you have that capacity to make other people to smile? Well you just found yourself a new career if you are able to say yes to all the questions above and seriously start your very own wedding photography business. 

A lot of wedding photographers who are now into wedding photography business started by taking pictures of family and friends. Until someone actually asked if he or she can take their wedding pictures and as they always say, the rest is history after doing their first wedding they simply liked doing it and kept on doing it which started their being a professional wedding photographer.

You simply have to do one wedding of a friend or a family member, see how you felt during the whole experience and if the wedding couple actually liked the photos. If they do you can ask them to tell their friends or if they know someone who is looking for a wedding photographer that you can do their weddings too. A satisfied wedding couple is your best advertisement. Tell everyone you know that you are officially doing wedding photography and if they can help your wedding photography business by telling their friends about your work as a photographer.

By starting to work with people that you know already  make it both easy for you as a  wedding photographer and to the would-be wedding couple as they would be very at ease working with you since they have come to know not only as their wedding  photographer but as their  friend as well.

Wedding photography is a serious business and if you consider it as such you need tools to market your services and by that it means you must have your own website. You can even make a social network profile on Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn and that will surely spread the word about your wedding photography business online. 

Would-be wedding couples will have the convenience of looking at your work as a wedding photographer online or on your website rather than have a meeting with you right away.  The more people see your work the bigger the chances of having would-be wedding couples asking about your wedding photography business. On your website you should only focus on one area of the kind of photography that you do and emphasize on your wedding photography photo collections. Create a specialized package for your wedding photography services and include your contact details.

A wedding photography business could be highly profitable if would-be wedding couples start to line up for your wedding photography services.  It is very important to capture the moment during the wedding and you can start building a good rapport with the would-be wedding couple if you make them very at ease with your presence. Talk to them and make sure that they are welcome to any suggestions or ideas about their wedding pictures. Communication is the key especially during the wedding. Make money shot list and make these known to the would-be wedding couple. This will give them an idea when you are capturing that special moment.

But also remember to take those special moments that you have not discussed with your wedding couple that way when they see their wedding pictures they would be happily surprised with shots that highlights some memorable wedding moments. 

Sunday, September 26, 2010

10 Tips for Taking Sharp Photos

You've spent your cold, hard cash on a great camera; yet capturing a crisp, sharp image still escapes you. What's the catch? A professional photographer will tell you that the secret to sharp photos requires hours of practice and the proper technique.

Here are ten tips for taking sharp photos:

1. Do what professionals do: Use a tripod or monopod, especially when the light gets low.

2. When using the tripod with the camera shutter speed at a slow setting, use a remote release or the self-timer--that way you don't have to touch the camera at all.

But what about those times when you really can't do that?

3. Then become a tripod by keeping your arms and elbows close to your sides to steady the camera. Lean on a wall if one is handy.

4. As you shoot, press the shutter--don't poke it.

5. Make sure that the camera has confirmed that the auto focus has locked on your subject (otherwise the camera might actually take the picture after you think you took the picture).

6. Set the ISO to a higher number, such as 800 or 1000. You may get increased noise (which looks like grain), but the camera will fire at a higher shutter speed, and that promotes sharpness.

7. If your camera has selectable auto-exposure modes, shift to Shutter Priority mode and set a faster shutter speed.

8. When it gets too dark, use a flash. Flash exposure freezes camera shake and subject movement because the burst of light from a flash is so very fast.

9. Watch for the peak of action and carefully time your shot--this is especially useful when shooting sports. If someone is jumping, for example, catch the person at the instant when he or she has leaped the highest and is about to settle back down to earth.

10. Consider a new camera with image stabilization. This can be built into the lens or camera to compensate for camera movement during exposure that will make subjects blurry. It's the ultimate remedy for a case of the jitters.

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Capturing Birds in Flight

A shot of a bird in flight has always been a challenge to photographers. Seeing a perfect print image only serves to make them eager to create the same result. Photographing a bird in flight presents one problem, but capturing that one special bird-in-flight shot that's in focus and has good composition plus good light can represent a whole set of problems. Everyone has his share of good flight shots where the bird may be just a tiny bit soft. Those are easy. But, how do you get a great flight shot?

The camera technology of the last several years has made flight photography easier than it was before, but there are still lots of variables that need to be added to the equation to make good bird-in-flight photography a common part of your repertoire. Here are some fundamentals to help you increase your supply of flight shots:

Camera Body Features

The camera body equipment out today has made action photography much easier than it was when manual focus was the rule rather than the exception. The first handy feature to set is the continuous focus mode called AI Servo on Canon and Continuous Servo on Nikon. This setting allows the lens to keep changing the focus as long as the shutter button is depressed halfway and the subject is in the set auto focus point.

Second, Canon has a custom function that expands the auto focus point activation area to either 7 or 13 points. This is a great function, as it allows for the subject movement to remain in focus even if you don't keep up with the movement of the bird in your primary AF point.

Drive mode is the third camera function to set. Here, the best setting is "high-speed continuous" where you get the most frames per second that your camera body will allow. While you'll burn quite a few shots with this setting, it will allow more shots to choose from for the wing position and lighting you like best.

Lens Selection

Lens selection is a very subjective topic with plenty of correct answers. Being a Canon shooter, I'll refer to Canon lenses, but many other brands have some comparable lenses. If you want to do flight photography handholding your camera and lens, the best choices are the 400 f/5.6 and the 100-400 IS. These are, by far, the best lenses on the market for flight photography. (Canon shooters have the advantage here, as the comparable Nikon lens, the 80-400 VR, is very slow to focus. People in my workshops have wanted to throw their Nikon lenses as far as they could when they couldn't force them to focus fast enough.)

When handholding, try to keep your hand as far out on the barrel of the lens as possible to provide better balance while you're panning and moving around with the subject. Also, tuck your elbows into your body as far as you can and keep your legs about shoulder-width apart. This position helps you turn your body into a tripod.

Your skill level also plays a part in proper lens selection. When you're starting out in bird photography, it's best to use the above lenses as opposed to "big guns" such as the 400 f/2.8, 500 and 600mm lenses. The reason is that shorter focal length lenses will provide easier tracking of the birds in the viewfinder. With the larger lenses, you have a very limited viewing range when the birds are close. You have to get them in view when they're farther away and stay with them until they move close enough for you to take your shot. After time and practice, you'll find it easier to focus on them when they're close, but even then you'll miss some shots. Longer focal lengths also allow you to work at greater distances with less change in subject position. Birds going across the frame are easier to track, particularly with a long focal length, than those coming directly into the camera, since they stay at roughly the same distance.

If you plan to shoot from a tripod instead of wanting to hand hold the camera/lens combination, a big lens will definitely do the trick. If you're setting up a big lens on a tripod, by far the best option for a tripod head is the Wimberley head. The gimbal action is designed for action photography and makes panning with the birds easier than you could imagine if you've never used one of these heads. You can use a sturdy ball head, but you have to be careful with how loose you keep it. I primarily use my 400 f/2.8, sometimes with an extender, with the Wimberley head and then keep a second body close at hand with a 70-200 f/2.8 lens and either a 1.4 or 2X extender attached.

The faster the f-stop of the lens, the better, as quick shutter speeds are imperative in getting sharp flight shots. It's best to be able to stick with a f/2.8 lens but this isn't always an option, depending on how much money you can spend. F/4 and f/5.6 are about as slow as you want for getting quick action shots, whether the subject is birds-in-flight or any other fast-moving subject.

Advancing lens technology has made flight photography much easier, but not foolproof. Auto focus is the major development that has helped to capture action. Be aware that owning an AF lens is not a guarantee of sharp results. There is no substitute for good technique. However, auto focus does yield a higher percentage of acceptable images when you're shooting birds in flight, especially if you have a camera body that can shoot upwards of eight frames a second or more.

ISO

Because digital cameras keep improving the quality of images you get at higher ISO settings, it's now alright to push the setting to 200 or even 400 to get good flight shots, depending on the available light. The caution to keep in mind is that a shutter speed of at least 1/500 is needed--preferably even 1/1000 or more, if possible. Doing a little bit of testing with shutter speed and f-stop will help you determine what the ISO needs to be for you to obtain the desired shutter speed.

Lighting

As with any other subject, lighting is critical with flight photography. The best light condition for flight photography is front lighting, with the sun at your back and the birds coming towards you or across in front. The best light is still those two golden times of day when the sun is low on the horizon, but because the subject is high in the sky, you can extend your shooting time as the higher sun can still bounce nice light off the bird.

Composition

A key detail to keep in mind when you're composing flight shots is which auto focus point is set. You need to become adept at changing the auto focus point on the fly for you to get good flight shots. As multiple birds are flying around your location, you have to be aware of which point you've selected for the best composition.

The best compositions have space in front of the bird in the direction the bird is flying. Having its beak/ bill crowded against the leading edge of the shot makes for a potential throwaway image, even if everything else is right with the shot. Your subject needs room to breathe, and continually changing the AF point for better composition will provide the space you need to maintain in front of the bird.

Starting out, keep the AF point on the center point and try to get the bird's eye focused there. This will ensure there is room in front of the bird for it to fly into the frame. While the eye will be in the middle of the frame, the majority of the bird will be behind it, so you'll be keeping the full bird from being centered in the frame.

Technique

The farther away you can get the subject into your viewfinder, the better. If you try to focus only on a bird that's close to your position, you'll never get a good flight shot. As you see a bird coming in your direction, get it in the viewfinder, and track with it as it moves closer. Once it's in the position you like (the preferred frame size and in good light), you can fire away.

When you're panning a bird in flight, continue the panning motion even after you've taken the final shot. Following through will keep that last shot in focus better than if you abruptly stopped the movement. It's the same idea as a golfer doing a follow-through on her shot or a baseball player continuing with his swing. A good way to do this is to continue shooting after the bird has passed you by. The last couple shots will be throwaways, but you'll have included the shot you really want.

The eyes have it. As with any wildlife photo, you need to have the eye in sharp focus. If the eye is out-of-focus, then the shot is not of a technical quality suitable for publication. If possible, try to set your AF point on the eye. If you can't do this, at least get the focus on the neck, as the neck of a bird is on the same plane as the eye.

Location

The biggest factor to keep in mind when you're shooting flight photography is the relationship of the wind and the sun. Birds will always (well, almost always) take off and land into whatever wind or breeze there is. Getting the wind under their wings help them with lift and drag. Putting yourself in the right position to get the best flight shots means having both the wind and the sun at your back, allowing the birds to come towards you.

As you see, there are plenty of factors to keep in mind when you're taking flight shots of birds. You have to think about how much you want the bird to fill the frame, what the background is like, and the direction of the subject in relation to the sun. Since these variables change from picture to picture, you begin to understand that creating great flight shots requires more than just getting the subject sharp. You'll need to give yourself time and practice. In the meantime, you always have the delete button on both the camera and the computer.

My 600 f/4 sitting on a Wimberley head with my camera set to high-speed continuous and the sun and wind at my back will keep me happy for a good long time. I try to get caught up with what's in front of me, fly with it, and become part of the action. The next stop for me will be in front of my computer, looking at lots of shots of birds in flight and, hopefully, lots of keepers.

Friday, September 24, 2010

Wireless Flash

I cover a wide variety of subjects within my business - everything from portraits, weddings through to corporate events - I need portable and versatile lighting that I can easily carry around with me, takes as little as a couple of minutes to set up and start shooting. These days I use the Nikon SB900 flashguns. These feature wireless i-TTL flash control, auto FP High-Speed Sync, Wide area AF assists Illuminator, Zoom function and much, much more. By using these, I've found that I can handle virtually any situation that I am called upon to photograph while on location. The most important factor when using these flashguns is being able to sync at any shutter speed of up to 1/8000. This is critical to my style of shooting.

These little flash guns are portable and extremely easy and quick to set up. Now I don't need to carry my heavy three-head studio flash kit to any events I attend. In fact, since I started using the Nikon kit I've hardly used my studio gear at all! There are no power cables, no sync leads and no light meters to worry about, and the best bit of all is that all remote wireless units can be controlled via the main master flash, which is attached to the camera's hot shoe. What this means is that if I wish to power up or down a remote flash I do not need to go up to the unit to do that, since it can be done via the master flash which is on camera. This saves a lot of time if you have more than two remote units. You take a shot, have a look and power up or down the relevant unit from your shooting position.

The Setup

The most important factor which the wireless flash adds is its ability to give me directional lighting within my images. I usually shoot with a SU800 commander unit as my Master and a SB900 as my Remote. The Remote flashgun can either be hand held or set up on a light stand and fired through an umbrella. The Nikon CLS system works on infra-red. So it is important to make sure that the sensor on the Remote is facing you so that the pre-flash or the infra-red beam reaches it and triggers the flashgun. This is critical when photographing outdoors.

Setting the Exposure

This is by trial and error. I set the camera & flash in manual mode so I have complete control over how much ambient & flash light is going through my lens. I take a shot, have a look at the back of the camera and adjust the exposure as required.

There are 4 variables when setting the exposure. If you follow the KISS principle of Keep It Simple Stupid, you won't go wrong. Here how I set my exposure:

I set the ISO to say 400 or any other speed and leave it alone

I set the aperture to f/4 and leave it alone. 95% of my flash photography is done at f/4

I set my shutter speed and don't it touch it all.

All I'm adjusting now is the output of the flash. If its too much, I cut it down and vice versa. Balancing the flash & ambient light in Manual mode is extremely easy and produces pleasing images and most importantly you get what you want, not what the camera / flash decide to expose!

Wireless Flash Weddings

Time is of the essence at a wedding, and quite often the photographer does not have the time to set up strobes to improve on the available lighting, even if this was possible, there is always the danger of trailing power cables and sync leads in a public location, and these may not be long enough to reach the outdoor location where you are looking to set up your shot. Using the Nikon SB900 makes all these considerations a thing of the past, and I've found that I can set my images up quickly and safely. Quite often during the reception I have clamped my remote SB900 guns to a suitable vantage point, such as a door frame, furniture edge or a curtain pole, using a Bogen 175 clamp.

Location Portraits

Shooting on-location allows me to use locations which I couldn't before with a traditional studio set up. Perfect example is on a hill where the car park could be about 20 minutes from the location where you are shooting. You walk all the way up with heavy equipment and only to find it starts to rain! Using the Nikon Speedlights allows quick and easy set up and also packing up is lightning fast if it starts to rain.

Corporate

Shooting in an office environment is quite challenging as the photographer may not have enough space to work with, while moving the furniture around to create room for a conventional lighting kit may not be an option. When I set up a shoot in an office, I make sure that I don't come in anyone's way and no one is inconvenienced by me. I don't have any need for any power supply and hence don't have any cables or leads to plug in to power points.

Even though the Nikon SB900 is a small flashgun, it does pack a punch or two. Used correctly and you will achieve results which will amaze you and your clients.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Digital Rebel XTi Close-up Mode and Rick Sammon

How to use the Close-up Mode on the Canon EOS Digital Rebel XTi with photographer Rick Sammon. From the forthcoming DVD, "Rick Sammon's Canon EOS Digital Rebel Photo Workshop"



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VU_paFTRgZU&hl=en

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Postmodernism As An Artistic Space - The Photographic World Of Chezhin The Artist

Black and white photography (and, latterly, colour photography) always emphasises the dividing line marking the intersection between time(s) and space(s), the intersection and interpenetration of today and yesterday, today and tomorrow - of my life and someone else's. It points to the event experienced by a person (someone we know or don't know, myself, just someone, nature, or society as a whole) at the moment when my attention is directed at the rectangular frame recording that which has already been and gone and which is yet present in my life just so long as I am looking at (remembering) it.

Those who turn our life, the reality of our experience, into photographic images measure it as a news reporter does, give it aesthetic order as does a film director, and 'set up' frames to 'please the eye' - just as the archivist who acts as custodian of the past. And yet sometimes subordination to the past (not to history, i.e. not to past time in the form of events) turns out to be too confining a role for the photographer and he becomes an Artist. An Artist who subordinates to himself and his will time, space, and the reality of time and space, directing the facial expressions of the main actors in his art - i.e. time (considered as a flow of passing moments) and events. In his hands the camera, negatives/positives, exhibits, and other tools of trade become instruments in the attainment of higher goals. This is how it was that at some point in his photographic career Andrey Chezhin became not a master of artistic photography or some particular genre of photography, but an artist uplifted by the coloured wings of the style of our age - that style which the critics love to slate, postmodernism.

Andrey Chezhin's reincarnation occurred in the not so distant past, against the background of historic events that had broken the consciousness of generations condemned to witness the change of course undergone by the giant ghost ship USSR-Russia as it turned from socialism to capitalism and from total paralysis of its executive structures to idiocy.

It was o­nly natural that the consciousness of the photographer/artist-to-be should energetically throw off torpidity and slip out of its old skin. Simple recording of social reality accompanied by clicks of the camera shutter gave way to interest in staged photography and experiments with exhibits (sometimes as many as three or more). Furthermore, Chezhin needed a suitable object of investigation - complete with hands, legs, and heads etc.; and this, for lack of other candidates prepared to surrender themselves to the required extent, turned out to be the artist himself, ever obedient to and trustful of his own direction. It was at this time, at the end of the 1980s, that Chezhin's first composite works - Black Square (1988) and Red Square (1990) - made their appearance. These, of course, referred to Kazimir Malevich, a recent exhibition of whose works at the RussianMuseum had triumphantly signalled a new era in the history of art and, more specifically, the lifting of taboos o­n interest in various stages in the development of 20th-century art.

Black Square and Red Square are, as already noted, composite works, each being made up of four parts. They were conceived by Chezhin not as a photographic series or a frame by frame sequence, as in film, but as structural works where each part is no more than a brick supporting the overall equilibrium of the entire structure. The main character here is man. In the first case, man is depicted with a black square o­n his forehead/brain; in the second, he is shown taking off the fetters that bind him.

The first part of Red Square shows an individual standing upright with arms held out horizontally and legs placed wide apart. His figure is hemmed in (drawn round) at its extremities - which form the end points of a geometrical shape - by a line/rope which calls to mind Leonardo's quest for the 'golden section' in the proportions of the human body. The red square contains all the space whose contours are marked and defined by the rope-line; and the man is himself enclosed in this space. Then, in the next two parts of this work, he manages to free himself from the rope as his head, arms, and legs are liberated in turn, while, at the same time, the area of control exercised by the red square o­n the surface of the photograph grows progressively narrower. Finally, in the last part of this work, the rope/measure is seen lying inside he artist's workshop o­n a sheet of paper, within the red square. The viewer becomes a witness of how a cultural symbol - the 'red square', Malevich, Suprematism, etc. - is transformed into a sociocultural o­ne: the man casts off the rope - which initially marks the contours of a star (head, arms, legs) - and liberates himself from the red, i.e. throws off ideology (the rope/fetters/red - a sign of danger, as we remember). The red is overcome; man is free.

It was at this time, i.e. at the end of the 1980s - to be more exact, in 1988 - that Chezhin embarked o­n a series of self-portraits which is unfinished to this day. The artist photographs himself - with hair, without hair, with his wife, with a ruler; photographs his hands (in Erotica); photographs himself, himself, and himself. At the same time he started working o­n 'types' for his series Portraits (1990) and was continuing to record social reality (material that would be used in Pairs, a series executed in 1987-1990-1997).

Chezhin's absurd, significant, and meaningless staged photographs of nameless types/characters give off a powerful, unpleasant semiphysiological sense/memory of a past age of male and female functionaries and workers stamped with the distinctive marks of the limited, if not curtailed consciousness of social invalidism. Here Chezhin's photography emphatically avoids any attempt to convey the psychological state or mood of the subject; this is photography that stands outside pyschoanalysis or psychologism, outside any expression of the 'psychical'. These are still-lifes where things (objects) are credited with neither spirit nor personal time, nor personal experience or living space or 'physiognomy'. Individuality has been ironed out, leaving o­nly the overall characteristic grimace of types in socialist society. This is what they managed to achieve in the 70 years of Soviet rule. And Chezhin the artist here merely reflects the success enjoyed by the now deposed ideology in shaping the Soviet personality.

It is personality shaping that in my opinion is the subject of the series of works entitled Kharmsiada executed in 1995 for an exhibition called 'The absurd object. An exhibition of presents by St Petersburg artists to D. Kharms in honour of the 100th anniversary of his birthday'.

A brick face, facial features shorn off or sewn up with thread, a face transformed by a door handle or a drawing-pin: these and other pleasures associated with methods of forming 'new people' are used by Chezhin in this series to present a kind of handbook for incipient power-lovers or a diary of obedience - a warning to the 'masses', i.e. to precisely that material from which, it should be noted, all this is moulded. Man turns to plastic, Chezhin warns us, if he stops thinking and resisting the will outside him - if he forgets his own authenticity, essence, and individuality.

Especially interesting from this point of view is Chezhin's work o­n the creation of his epoch-making The Life of Drawing-Pins, which comprises the series Album for Drawing-Pins and The Drawing-Pin and Modernism. The drawing pin and its fellows are, as it turns out, highly convenient main characters in instances taken from daily experience/recording, absurd situations supplied by the artist and the reality that surrounds him. The unitary nature of the hero of the piece gives Chezhin unprecedented freedom to destroy individuality while setting up his own mythologised drawing-pin world, absurd to the point of recognizability, and while allowing the viewer to reach the conclusion - o­nly partly forced upon us by Chezhin himself - that 'we are all drawing-pins, my dear sirs ... '.

Chezhin's interest in personal expressions of humanity no doubt explains the constant use he makes of the genre of self-portraiture. Here we should observe a number of different stages in the artist's study of himself as a representative of the human and natural worlds and of reality itself: generalization; reduction to a common denominator; and individualization of the image (himself). Here there is no opposition set up between 'me' and 'they'. Chezhin is not concerned with asking himself 'me or someone else?'; instead, he is out to find an answer to the problem 'me' as 'they'. He studies man viewed statically - not in action and movement, but in the movement/change of time. What is important for him is the nature of man and the human body - not anatomy or anthropology as such, but man in his different dimensions, self-knowledge, and self-realizations (whether with a ruler or with or without hair).

The self-portraits of various different years, series, and cycles contain an element of play which comes out at transitional moments involving switches between, say, action/reality, artist/man, reality/photographic reality/artistic reality/deception/the reality of the artist's desire and of his creative effort and destiny.

In all the photographs in the series Self-Portraits (1988-1997), Andrey Chezhin's face is identical: the scarcely perceptible changes escape attention - even though Chezhin slips in, among the pile of material to be examined by the viewer, versions of himself both with and without hair. This deliberate recording of something intentionally, emphatically identical puts us o­n edge, causes our eyes to slow and steady in their tracks ...

As Modernism and Postmodernism have developed art has frequently in o­ne way or another confronted and dealt with issues relating to time, space, and movement as process. Man, the human body and its parts, and the face as that which expresses and contains man's essence have been recurring subjects for all kinds of artists and an object of general art discourse. But the o­nly example that comes to mind of an artist engaging in thorough self-examination and meticulous recording of himself, his 'I', and his face as the image of that 'I' dates to the 18th century and Mr. Rembrandt's self-portraits depicting mood, grimaces, etc.

For Chezhin the human being (the 'I') is an object in changing time and changed temporal space (which is practically non-existent), where the emphasis is o­n paradox, e.g. o­n the non-obligatory, casual nature of a situation, o­n the o­ne hand, and the significance of the moment recorded and its recording, o­n the other.

Another feature of Andrey Chezhin's interest in man (himself; the 'I' of his self-portraits) is the self-sufficient way in which, quite independently of everything external, the 'I' dissolves in a second person's world and that other person's world dissolves in the 'I' (here I could mention the three 1991 series called Your-mine, where female and male elements merge into a unified 'I'). Here the 'I' is the artist's 'I' and that of his wife. The viewer is presented with a conflict-free interpenetration of the male and that which has its beginning in woman, in nature. In Chezhin's work the self-portrait and depiction of man is an inexhaustible topic with many typical features. o­ne other such feature is Chezhin's use of sociocultural signs and their symbolic resonances - e.g. the red square, the black square, the rope, man, a recognizable urban landscape.

Chezhin's series of self-portraits present life as a series of changes in the artist. His multi-part work of self-observation Calendar (1990-1991) depicts a series of situations/days/incidences - in other words, routine daily life, - examining the idea of temporal changes experienced by a static subject in a situation where measurement of the passing of time is veiled. These works grow in time, with time, and with the artist.

In every structure/work created by Andrey Chezhin social reality undergoes change and there is a movement from state to state, a sliding before and after, an imperceptible movement from edge to edge. The series Pairs (1987-1997), for instance, comprises sheets composed in 1997 from pairs of snap photographs taken over the period 1987-1990. Together, they form a collection of works that are sign-like and legible. Their meaning is accessible o­n the basis of associations and sensations as Chezhin exploits mechanisms of perception, alogism, absurdity, logic, and direct and reverse sense-formation. Take, for example, the sheet Why am I not Fond of Moscow? At the top of this piece Chezhin has placed a photographic trick - a superimposition of o­ne of Chechulin's skyscrapers and a spreading birch tree. At the bottom, under the beautiful pattern formed by the branches of a shrub, a dead dog is seen lying o­n the ground. What could give a clearer or more expressive impression of the artist's lack of fondness for this city? The double denials, the absurd semantic situations, the fidelity of the image to reality, and the plastic coincidences /references: all this explodes correct, logical reasoning and judgement and finds an echo in the tonally correct way in which these pairs are perceived by the viewer. This is true of other sheets in the series too.

In his composite, multi-structure, cyclical work Transformations (1991-1997; cyclical in as much as a repetitive rhythm of beginning-end, beginning-end runs throughout) Chezhin sets up horizontal rows/films/moments. The heroes of these films are unchanging; what changes is the space around them, their surroundings, and the conditions governing the game or existence in which they are taking part. For example, Chezhin photographs the granite sphere o­n the spit of Vasil'evsky Island from all sides. And, seen from every side, the sphere is a sphere, but the space in which it is set changes dramatically round about - from ripples o­n water to architectural landscape.There could be no better illustration of Matyushin's theory of 'expanded looking'. Or take the sequence of clocks(street mechanisms/objects) photographed at particular moments in time. Here the main character is time and its attributes - dials, hands, and the structures that encase clock mechanisms. Or the subject could be seen as a film sequence: road-legs-road. And so o­n. In this composite work each line is a question whose resolution is possible o­nly for the given artist; a question/problem, moreover, which is to be dealt with not so much by resolving it as by living it through. Here you will find all the eternal questions posed by art in the 20th century: identification of o­neself and the world in o­neself; cognition of o­neself and the outside world; examination of the basic categories for constructing (and creating) the reality of o­ne's embodiment; the main questions of life and eternity; play in accordance with the laws of existence and contexts for such play; incidentalness and regularity. Finally, this work succeeds in personifying a sense of change in time and space and in space in time.

The photographic world created by the photographer and artist Andrey Chezhin likewise has room for the art of the comic strip, for a physiognomic constructor, for St Petersburg-as-city-and-text, and for geometric studies a la Esher. This world is vast, paradoxical, sometimes alogical (from the point of view of the ordinary person) - but fascinating. It is a space that acts like a vortex: you o­nly have to take the first step in its direction, become a little interested, and you find yourself unable to stop looking, you lose your way out as you blunder about the labyrinth of the artist's consciousness, jumping from level to level, from o­ne series of works to another, colliding with enigmas, laws, traps set by the carefully watching artist - and you gradually come to realize that the main hero of Chezhin's works is time. Time for him is an important category by which we get to know - and record - the world. It divides into seconds, moments, instants, units of experience. Time sets like a sticky, viscous mass or flows freely like a homogeneous substance - liquid, elastic, fluid. In the Self-Portraits of 1988-1997 time is an existential substance, an attribute of history and of the historical development of society and of man as representative of this society and as a part of its culture. The artist is able to move about in time; and this becomes o­ne of the ludic features of his work (the presence of the physical in real and non-real space; the artist's almost comic right to choose his own contemporaries - and their deeds - for himself). Likewise, he is able to impose simultaneity o­n events which are separated in time, as in the works Group Self-Portrait (1994) and Visiting Bulla (1994).

Time for Andrey Chezhin is expressed in specific objects. In his hands it is something with clearly marked, definite boundaries. These boundaries, though, are in the dimension not of man, but of history, in the specific time/happening of a given event in the history of this country and in abstract time in general, in the archaic, timeless, stagnant changelessness of man's presence in the world as he sets about discovering his own dimension. For Chezhin even today time is divided up into the smallest elements/units that flash past seen through a train window or o­n the screen of a television, computer, or other chronometric miracle of the kind that devours human time, genius, and intuition.

It is the movement of time that defines the characteristic space of Chezhin's works. In them space is real at every unit of time, but unreal, phantasmagoric, spectral at each post-unit of time-after-this-moment.

Space perceived, experienced, and recorded by equipment and man during the passing of time is in the power of the artist. This space changes at every moment of the advance of time, at every moment that this time is experienced by man, through the experiencing of this time in this space. The artist confronts the viewer not with the deformation of space, but with space that is changed over an extensive stretch of time.

There is nothing accidental in Chezhin's choice of compositional structure for his works. As a rule, they are composite structures that show man through multiplicity (e.g. Group Portrait or Transformations). The framework of these pieces is a living structure whose active influence is felt o­nly when its various elements form a semantic, plastic link with o­ne another. This link then becomes sensible; the elements of the structure feed and fuel o­ne another.

Time, space, man, object, play are the perpetual engines that drive the Petersburg photographer Andrey Chezhin's interest in attaining an equilibrium in the relation between 'the external world' and'the world in o­neself'. The artist uses his craft and photography as instruments. The photographer Andrey Chezhin is an artist of the end of the 20th century, the heyday of Postmodernism.

Carl Zeiss And His Binoculars

The ones that introduce a new idea into technology should be the ones that others ask for information on those items. This is true in many of the cases.

The Carl Zeiss brands of binoculars were not created because there was a need for them. The company has been in business for over a hundred years. They have much experience in the manufacturing of optical products. It was created in the year of 1852 as a workshop for Moritz Carl Hensoldt the founder of the company. He was in the business of creating equipment used in astronomy, microscopes, and telescopes for viewing planets and other terrestrial objects. In the year of 1893 an application for the double telescope with a longer range of sight was applied for. It was given to them July 9, 1893.

The Carl Zeiss binoculars that have the roof prisms in them came about in the year of 1897. These particular binoculars are well known as the Penta 7x29 model A-. This product was the beginning of the better features in the world of binoculars and scopes for rifles.

Carl Zeiss created another wonderful set of binoculars in the year of 1903. The Dialyt was created for the binocular marketplace. It was recognized around the world and gathered much fame and success. This was the beginning of the trademark that would forever be known as the Dialyst. This trademark would take the Carl Zeiss binocular products and scopes for rifles trademark of Diavari around the world. The Diavari trademark came into existence in 1954.

Two years later the binoculars that are made by Carl Zeiss used the cuff gasket for their designed because it was an item that had many features to it. The binocular products that were made with this item were able to focus on something while being safely covered from any debris and wetness. This was a major feat for a double sight binocular because up until then, it was only in a single sight binocular.

The binoculars that Carl Weiss came out with in 1958 were known as the B-model. these binoculars give you a wide range of sight and are great for the users that have eyeglasses. Pocket size binoculars were made in 1974 and given to the public as a grand feature. These binoculars also gave you a main point of focus and were also available for glasses wearers.

Form the year of 1974 until today, the binoculars made by Carl Zeiss [http://www.binoculars-rating.com/Binocular_With_Digital_Camera/] keep on giving advances to the technology of the optical equipment we use. They have become the world's oldest makers of binoculars that are still up and running today. They have gotten this recognition because of their many years of experience and knowledge in the field. This form of lens crafting has been a generational craft that Carl Zeiss created.

Much of the things that Carl Zeiss stands for came from many trial and error times. This is not uncommon for the technology world to try and fail only to find a better product among the dust. Carl Zeiss has worked hard to give the customers the best of the best features possible in the market today.

Monday, September 20, 2010

Are Computers Killing Photography?

Digital photography has beginners all over the world desperate to learn how to take better photos using their digital cameras. Where can they learn the skills of good photography?

A few years ago, I wrote an ebook to teach beginners the basics of good photography. You know, aperture, shutter speed, depth of field, lighting, composition; the sort of things experienced photographers take for granted. In recent times, I have been amazed at the increasing number of people eager to get their hands on this type of information.

With the internet seemingly taking over the world, and the explosion in availability of books, ebooks and courses on just about every subject, why is it so hard for a new photographer to find out how to use their camera? It's a mystery for the modern age, but I think I may have found the answer.

If a person has a bad experience, especially if that experience cost them hard-earned dollars, they will tell others. And what they are telling me is that they are NOT HAPPY with most of the photography courses and guides on offer.

Many courses and workshops advertising 'digital photography' have little or nothing to do with actual photography. That's right, you can sign up to learn the skills of better photography and not learn one thing about taking better photos.

What you get instead is a workshop in photo-editing. How to fix up your bad photos, how to superimpose rainbows and birds into your landscapes and how to remove freckles and pimples from your portraits. How to use software which, in many cases, the customer doesn't have, doesn't want and possibly can't afford.

Are these useful skills? Of course they are, but they are not photography. At best, they are peripheral skills that relate to photography, for people (and there are plenty of them) who choose to go down that path.

The result could be a generation of 'photographers' who know more about fixing up their mistakes on a computer than about taking good photos in the first place.

If a customer pays you to teach them photography, they have a right to expect that they will learn how to use a camera. If they want to learn about computer software, they will buy a different ebook, or sign up to a different course. If you take their money, then sit them in front of a computer for three days, you have not given them what they paid for. If your customer asks for their money back - so they should.

I could take a pessimistic view, and think that some photographers have become so lazy, so unskilled, that they really believe digital manipulation is more important to photography than skill with a camera. I prefer to think that the customers I have spoken to have just been the victims of misunderstandings and poorly worded advertising.

Whichever is the case, customers beware! Before you hand over your money, find out exactly what you are signing up for. If you want to learn how to take better photos, make sure the course (or workshop, or ebook etc) is about the camera, not just the computer. If software is a component of the course, terrific - you are getting a well rounded look at the world of photography. If it is the only component, shop around; there are still people out there who want to teach what you want to learn.

Dynamic Range in the World of Photography

Look at something other than your computer screen for a moment and take note of the world around you. You should notice bright highlights and dark shadow areas without much of a problem. Film and digital sensors do not see as well as you do. The shadows and highlights may be quantified as numbers that represent the luminance of any scene. The standard measure of luminance is expressed as candelas per square meter or cd/m2. The luminance of the sun is expressed as a ratio of 1,000,000,000:1 or 1 billion candelas to 1 square meter. Other common expressions of luminance are:



Star light = 0.001:1



Moon light = 0.1:1



Indoor light = 50:1



Sunny sky = 100,000:1

So what does all this mean to me as a photographer? Well, if an average sunny day has a luminance of 100,000:1 this means that the brightest area of a scene is 100,000 times brighter than the darkest area. Of course, all outdoor scenes are not fixed at 100,000:1. Haze, clouds, early morning and late afternoon sun all impact the dynamic range of an image. Shooting at noon is far different than shooting during the golden hours. I generally avoid shooting outdoors between around 10:00 AM and 2:00 PM because even with HDR as a tool, the harshness of the dynamic range does not make for pleasing images.

For our purposes here think of stops as exposure values or EV's. An EV is an integer, a whole number, corresponding to the scene luminance. Under this formula an EV=0 when the correct exposure is 1 second at f/1.0. An EV increment of 1 is the equivalent of 1 stop so that an increase in EV by 1 halves the amount of luminance while an increment of 1 stop down doubles the luminance or available light. The human eye has a dynamic range of 100,000:1 which, in turn, is equivalent to a range of 20EV. Below I show some common mechanical values for a number of capture devices as well as some display medium.



Negative film: dr=1500:1 or 10.5EV



Computer monitor: dr=500:1 or 9.0EV



D-SLR: dr=300:1 or 7.0EV



Compact digital camera: dr=100:1 or 6.6EV



High quality glossy print:  dr=200:1 or 7.6EV



High quality matte print:  dr=50:1 or  5.6EV

So there you have it, the crux of the problem. If the scene outside has a dynamic range of say 50,000:1 and the sensor on your very high quality, professional grade D-SLR only has a sensor capable of capturing a dynamic range of 300:1 how does one capture and display images that have a higher exposure value than the technology is capable of capturing or displaying?

Let's look at how images are captured in your camera as a lead into answering our primary question of how to capture images that are mechanically uncapturable. Digital sensors replace film in the modern world so I will limit this discussion to digital photography. Many D-SLR cameras and some others support a RAW format for image capture. Canon's CRW and CR2 files or Nikon's NEF files are examples of proprietary RAW captures. A single RAW file records around 10EV. Pretty good, eh, but still not quite good enough to get everything that's out there. The advantage of the RAW file, however, is that it captures a continuum of stops from under to over exposed in a single file which can prove advantageous later on. Some users, because of the extended EV have called the RAW file a medium dynamic range image.

Cameras also store images as JPEG files. The sensor interpolates the color and intensity and sends the exposure through a series of in-camera steps that address white balance, saturation, sharpness, contrast and so on. JPEG compression, the final step in the process, is performed and the file is stored as a JPEG file. The JPEG file contains only 256 levels of intensity and captures only about 8EV. It is a low dynamic range image. For most studio work the JPEG file is the file of choice for me. It cuts down on my workflow and processing time and for portraiture where I am in full control of the light and the dynamic range of that light, I find no need to shoot RAW. Landscapes, on the other hand, I only shoot in RAW.

The two standard formats for saving images after the RAW conversion takes place are TIFF and JPEG. While JPEG files can be produced in-camera from the RAW exposure using proprietary software in the camera, TIFF files are created during processing of RAW files in processing software such as Photoshop or Lightroom. The JPEG file contains luminance values ranging from 0-255 (a total of 256) while the TIFF file stores values from 0-65,535. It is clear that the TIFF file stores a far wider luminance range than does the JPEG file.

Still, even the TIFF file cannot capture the full dynamic range of a beautiful landscape. In order to produce a high dynamic range image one must look elsewhere. Two formats for storage are available, the RadianceRGBE (.hdr) and OpenEXR (.exr) generally produced in software outside of Photoshop or Lightroom, I use Photomatix PRO for my HDR conversions from RAW files and generally save the RadianceRGBE format. The RadianceRGBE format is a 32-bit format while the OpenEXR format starts out as 48-bits but is reduced in processing to 32-bits. Both formats are lossless (saving and reopening does not degrade the files). The RadianceRGBE format represents 76 orders of magnitude in dynamic range, remember that the human eye has a mere 20EV range, far more than one might ever need. The drawback, although I have never been able to really see the difference, is that the RadianceRGBE format is slightly less accurate than the OpenEXR format.

Once the hdr conversion takes place, that is you now have a.hdr or.exr file there is one more step required. In its native state the hdr files are unusable. One must tone map the hdr file in order to make it useful. Tone mapping is a scaling back process taking the 32-bit hdr file and reducing the 32-bit floating point values present in the HDR file and producing a 16-bit TIFF or 8-bit JPEG file containing fixed integer values. Now you have an image that mirrors the high dynamic range of the landscape you are photographing. While not perfect, the HDR process is a quite good answer to the problem of capturing the uncapturable.

Sunday, September 19, 2010

What Can You Do With Bubble Pouches?

Bubble pouches are plastic bags that feature tiny air bubbles built in, offering protection to whatever is placed inside the bag. They function very well as an art protector for a host of different types of artwork; in addition, they have other handy uses as well.

Matted prints can be placed inside bubble pouches for excellent protection against fingerprints and oils from the hands. Mounted prints can be kept in pristine condition when they are placed into a gallery pouch for protection.

Framed artwork can be kept safe by placing it inside a gallery pouch. Additional protection is available when you use picture frame protectors. Picture frame protectors are little cardboard corners that fit over each corner of your frame, giving additional protection from nicks and scrapes. When used with bubble pouches, they offer exceptional protection from damage.

Art transportation is another reason why artists and gallery owners turn to bubble pouches. When you are an artist, you must be able to show your artwork to gallery owners in order to get a showing of your work. What this means is that you will need reliable art transportation protection for your fine art pieces. It also needs to be quick and easy to use; no gallery owner has time for a lengthy unwrapping of each of your pieces of artwork. This is why bubble pouches are available with a simple flap over the opening of the bag, or you can choose to have a hook and loop fastener on it. The openings of the bags are available on the top or side, making it easy to load and unload artwork from them.

There are other art-related uses for these handy bubble bags. You can store stretcher bars with or without a canvas on them in the bags. For sculptors, their sculpted artwork can be protected through the use of these bags, which come in a wide range of sizes. Those who create glass art need a way to ensure that their precious artwork is protected, and thus bubble bags are suitable for this purpose. Artists who work in mixed media also find the protective bags useful for covering their artwork. Collectibles such as china pieces or phonograph records can go inside the bubble bag for storage. Artists who use cameras in their artwork process will be happy to know that your photographic lenses can be safely protected inside a bubble bag.

Because the gallery pouch art protector bags are also reusable, you will find many additional ways to use these fantastic bags around your workshop or studio.

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Photography Business - How to Survive When Your Photography Business is Struggling?

Realize That You Have Cash Sitting On Your Hard Drive - If you've been shooting for anything length of time it's probably safe to assume that you have an extensive library of images on your hard drive just sitting there collecting virtual dust. Now is the time to go through work, print samples and breathe new life into your library.

Offer them on your website for sale -or- contact a small local gallery or perhaps even a coffee shop. Anyway you can get your work in front of eyes can be great way to raise your visibility. The benefits can range from direct print sales all the way to private commissions.

Expand Your Reach By Marketing Online As Well As Off - If you're stuck on print marketing i.e. taking ads in physical publications or direct mail perhaps it's time to start marketing your services online. Today we have so many options for getting the word out about our services from personal blogs to social media networking websites like Facebook, YouTube and Twitter just to name a few. I urge you not to dismiss these tools as the domain of high school kids, trust me when I say that major business is being conducted via these sites.

I'm personally constructing educational programs for photographers and making deals with prospects that I've never physically met. Get online and expand your reach, it's practically free and the benefits can be business transformational.

Adopt An Attitude of Bold-Thinking - When times are tight financially our natural inclination is tighten our purse strings, understandably. And while you don't want to be fool hardly with your spending you don't want to be stingy in your thinking. (What I mean is that now is time to adopt an out-of-the-box attitude, don't automatically assume that you have "spend" more money.

Think how can I make better investments? Sometimes your investment will require a financial commitment, but in my experience I've found that some of the most powerful investments you can make are in "Relationships". (So now is the time to think bolder, resist retreat and encourage reaching out. Contact individuals that you can create joint ventures with. These relationships can be other businesses that can use your images, or photographic expertise to promote their services and vice versa.

For example, a small hotel or resort may be interested in promoting a weekend photo workshop, especially if you can bring in new customers for them. Going back to the first point I made in this article about cash on your hard drive, see if you have images that you could print and offer for sale in local boutique or shop. I recently brokered a deal like this for a client and it was great opportunity for both the photographer and the shop owner.

Finally, don't allow today's challenging economic climate to knock the wind out of your business. Use this opportunity to think bigger. Money likes speed, don't wait; get started today. Create a list of potential joint venture partners and see how you create an offer that combines what you love to shoot as a photographer with businesses that need to bring in new customers.

Friday, September 17, 2010

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Peter Scoones - Legendary Underwater Cameraman!

There is little, if anything, that Peter Scoones does not know about underwater image making. A BAFTA and two Emmys surrounded by numerous other awards are testament to his creative achievements. But it is Peter's dual expertise in both beautiful, artistic cinematography and innovative technical wizardry which make him both unique and extra-ordinarily accomplished in this challenging field. His creative talent has taken him many times around the world for a string of unrivalled wildlife documentaries, many for the BBC Natural History Unit in the company of perhaps the greatest and most distinguished wildlife presenter ever known, Sir David Attenborough. However, he also designs, builds and maintains all his equipment and remains at the very cutting edge of his field today after an underwater career spanning nearly five decades.

He made his first film with an 8mm camera in a homemade Perspex box in the early 1960's, using only a mask, snorkel and fins. From there he has progressed to become one of the leading wildlife natural history underwater cameramen in the world. When I arrived to interview him at his central London flat he was designing a new viewfinder because the cameras he uses have changed their configuration. "Necessity is the mother of invention" says Peter, and never was it more applicable than to this exceptional man.

Born in Wanstead, North London in 1937 to a sailing family, a marine career seemed almost inevitable. After school he qualified as a naval architect but on subsequently passing the entrance exam to the Royal Naval College at Dartmouth for commissioned officer training, his eyesight was tested below standard. So, when National Service loomed, instead of two years as a naval clerk he signed up for nine years in the RAF "to learn something useful". That something was photography.

At the time, Peter was a serious racing sailor "I'm the sort of chap who is 100% involved in whatever activity I am doing, nothing else intrudes" he says. Posted to Singapore, he headed the RAF sailing team. The fast, keeled sailing boats became sluggish when coated in marine algae and hauling them up slipways was time-consuming and cumbersome. Instead, the team borrowed masks and snorkels from the Navy and scrubbed the hulls underwater. Having never previously considered what was under the yachts he raced, Peter observed the shoals of pretty, colourful fish feasting on the debris. Around the same time Hans Hass's boat moored nearby and Peter had a 'eureka' moment. Hass was already his hero and Hass's presence and the lovely marine life meant the area was probably a prime location for the beautiful images he had seen on TV and in the cinema.

So, after persuading the Navy to teach the basics on their O2 rebreathers they formed a diving club. "The RAF disapproved of diving, considering it a dangerous activity, but we ignored them" Peter grins. Due to limited equipment they became highly adept at snorkelling and learned to skip breathe. "I could hold my breath underwater for 3-4 minutes, I still do it. You can't film while breathing it disturbs you, makes you wobble". Due to the lack of kit, as a temporary measure using RAF machine shops, recycled aircraft oxygen tanks and various hoses Peter built a couple of aqua lungs. "Demand valves are fairly simple things" he says, with typical understatement and modesty.

Already hooked on the underwater world through snorkelling, Peter's first ever dive, off Palau Tekukor nearly 50 years ago, was not without drama. Attached by rope "the tanks were very valuable, we didn't want to lose one" he floated down over the drop-off and with "wow" on his lips as a school of batfish wafted gently by he was completely captivated. With his skip breathing technique he stayed down far longer than expected for the air in the tank, so the crew began hauling the rope in. As he was being drawn inexorably towards a large cluster of nasty black sea-urchins, the stings of which can be very painful and indeed serious if multiple, he planted his feet firmly on the wall and pulled as hard as he could. Not only did his first dive feature beauty, awe and danger, he also incurred the wrath of the Far East boxing champion who he pulled into the water on the other end of the rope.

Peter was keen on both wildlife and photography since school days, so it wasn't long before his joint passions of image-making, diving and nature came together. Ever inventive, he would scavenge discarded, scratched aircraft windows returning them to stores and claiming a replacement, thus acquiring pristine sheets of Perspex to model housings from. He made cement from Perspex chips dissolved in chloroform, controls from used hydraulic linkages and created waterproof shafts - this was before o'rings were widely available. Unlike today when you can buy a housing off the shelf, there was nothing for it then but to build his own and in this he was truly a pioneer. "There was the Rolleimarin designed by Hass but that was way outside our budget, Nikonos which evolved out of Cousteau's Calypsophot didn't emerge until 1963, necessity is the mother of invention - if it doesn't exist, build it". There was that signature phrase again.

Tending towards moving film he housed a Bolex C-8 8mm cine camera and shot his first travel piece. He then moved from Singapore to Aden in the Red Sea and created his first feature film 'Breathless Moments'. This won the gold medal at the first Brighton film festival in 1965 and led to several production companies contacting him wishing to distribute the film. But, with great disappointment it transpired the 8mm media was not production quality and could not be used commercially. Peter immediately rejected 8mm, bought a 16mm camera and says "I could never afford to film for myself again. The film was so expensive I had to get paid in order to fund it".

Around this time he co-founded the British Society of Underwater Photographers (BSoUP) with Colin Doeg. Colin, a journalist at the time, has himself contributed significantly to British underwater photography including taking the first picture in British waters ever to win an open international underwater photographic competition. BSoUP is still going strong today boasting membership from many of the foremost underwater photographers in the UK. Having just celebrated it's 40th anniversary, Peter and Colin are still both regular attendees at the meetings in London, a testament to the down to earth nature of both these amazing men.

Says Colin "being a superb camera mechanic as well as accomplished photographer helps Peter handle with aplomb the most dreaded event in any underwater photographer's life... a flood. It is an unforgettable experience to see him calmly pour pints of sea water out of his custom-made camera housing and begin to salvage his expensive video camera anywhere on land or sea. Surrounded by an awe-struck audience and often an ashen producer or client - he can strip his camera down to its carcass, wash and sun-dry all the vital electronic circuit boards and have it working again in as little as a couple of hours".

Colin continues "Peter is hugely talented and is probably the most self-sufficient wildlife underwater cameraman in the world. He has introduced many new ideas, including the use of polecams and cameras slung beneath radio controlled rafts. In the early days in the UK he pioneered the concept of standard sized openings in the body of housings so the ports were interchangeable, something we all take for granted today. He also used to produce correction lens from raw Perspex and blow his own dome ports".

At the end of his nine year stint he left the RAF and joined a colour laboratory in London. For the next few years he absorbed as much as possible about underwater filming. To supplement his strong technical background and optical knowledge he thoroughly researched and read everything ever written on the subject, teaching himself. "I learnt from anyone who could tell me" he says, "I was a sponge, soaking up everything that I needed".

During this time Peter became involved in a production company and continued to push the boundaries of underwater filming. Combining his by now extensive knowledge with an electronics expert colleague, they invented systems for the oil industry. One such project was developing inspection cameras for the BP offshore oil platforms. The only other equipment in existence was inadequate for the low visibility of the North Sea. So, necessity calling again, they developed a camera based on the silicon-intensified technology being used by NASA which functioned in low-light and worked remotely from the platform without the need for divers.

Their reputations spread and one day there was a knock on the door of the workshop in Richmond just outside London. It was David Attenborough (subsequently to become Sir David) and a colleague from the BBC Natural History Unit who wanted to film a live coelacanth in low-light conditions, something that had never been done before. The primitive looking, pre-historic coelacanth, which usually lives around 1,000ft deep, was only re-discovered in the last century after scientists thought it had become extinct along with the dinosaurs, 65 million years earlier. Attenborough was heading to the Comores islands as part of the BBCs 'Life on Earth' series to follow up reports of local fishermen hauling coelacanths up from the deep. He had heard about Peter's camera and wanted to hire it. Peter seized his opportunity. Not only had he read about the coelacanth in school and long harboured an ambition to film it, but he also knew his camera was a completely unique and innovative asset that he was certainly not going to hand over for someone else to use. "I told them they could have my equipment for free" he recalls "as long as they paid for me to go out with them and operate it".

Thus began Peter's long standing involvement with the BBC including 'Reefwatch', 'The Trials of Life', 'Sea Trek', 'Life in the Freezer', 'The Blue Planet' and 'Planet Earth' which was the first broadcast in high definition, among many others. 'Reefwatch' filmed in the northern Red Sea was the first ever live underwater broadcast. At the time, production quality camera heads were not integrated with any recording device, thus filming was achieved by passing the image back to the surface where it was adjusted and recorded. The BBC technicians in Bristol were developing their own cameras "but their knowledge was limited" Peter recalls "I knew their equipment wasn't going to suffice, but they were disinclined to listen to a external freelancer. So I made my own camera. It was less snazzy and elegantly engineered than theirs, but it out-performed them every time".

During 'Sea Trek', Peter enhanced the polecam which he had originally invented for filming killer whales in Norway for an Australian broadcaster. The whales would not approach if there was a diver in the water so Peter put the camera on a pole over the bow of an inflatable boat and drove right up to the creatures. The resulting film, 'Wolves of the sea' included the first recording of whales 'carousel feeding', herding the herring into balls near the surface then using their tails to stun them before scooping them up. With the modern proliferation of wildlife films and tourist excursions this kind of behaviour is now observed by a wide audience, but then it was completely new. The film went on to win the annual Wildscreen Festival. For 'Sea Trek' Peter used the polecam to film dolphins in the Bahamas coming towards the boat rather than going away, this was yet another first.

Peter's next invention was 'the dog'. He developed remote capability by buying a broadcast quality recorder and housing it, connecting it to the camera by umbilical wire and ensuring the unit was neutrally buoyant so it would follow him in the water. He developed the camera control system from scratch, making a colour viewfinder so he could control the image. No longer was he reliant on an onshore technician. This was a revolutionary development and used right up until the BBCs spectacular 'Life in the Freezer' displaying life in the Antarctic in 1993, again with David Attenborough. Around this time broadcast quality camcorders became available which Peter housed so everything was finally all in one unit.

The following years brought a great variety of projects including, in 1995, 'Great White Shark' portraying the natural behaviour of great whites in California and South Africa. He still considers this to be the definitive depiction of these magnificent creatures, and as usual expresses this with no arrogance, simply as a fact. Peter is often accompanied on filming projects by his wife Georgette Douwma who is a highly accomplished photographer in her own right. The couple compliment each other delightfully with the ease and comfort of very good, old friends and also provide support and strength where needed.

The BBC's blockbuster series 'The Blue Planet' came next and Peter's skills were described by Sir David Attenborough thus: "Peter has a remarkable gift of composition. He understands fish just as other cameramen understand chimpanzees. He knows fish so well he can sense what they are going to do. You can see it in his footage. He moves as the fish move. We told him to go to his favourite destination and produce the footage for a film," Attenborough says. "We would construct the story to go with it. He went to Sipadan and the resulting film won a Palm d'Or at the Antibes film festival in France."

Peter's most recent, major involvement was with yet another BBC/ Attenborough landmark 'Planet Earth'. This was right at the forefront of technological advancement using High Definition (HD) technology for the first time. Aware of technical limitations on 'The Blue Planet' the series producer Alastair Fothergill approached Peter a year before filming and asked him to build the HD housings. Peter feared he would invest much time and effort creating high quality, top-end equipment only to see it hired out to other cameramen rather than filming himself, a prospect he was distinctly uncomfortable with. On assurance he would be fully involved he went ahead with the build, only to find some of his fears were realised with less involvement than expected. Apart from the frustration, this had a very real effect on his income. To balance this, after 'Planet Earth' wrapped up, rather than the equipment remaining with the BBC as is usual Peter insisted it be returned to his ownership and he now hires it out himself, maintaining it, continually developing it and still shooting himself where possible. His current involvement is with the BBC's next great wildlife epic entitled simply 'Life'.

Peter's long and prolific career has not been without hazard, like the time he was speared by an elephant trunk in the murky waters of the Okavanga Delta while filming for Planet Earth leading to extensive dental work. His life has been at risk from wildlife too many times to mention here, but he approaches these natural dangers with a typical relaxed philosophy. However, there is something he admits to being frightened of. "Ropes and regulations can kill you" he explains. "Once when filming a cable burying device the HSE advisor insisted I was attached by rope which I could not independently release. I blankly refused and eventually he compromised so I could release it myself. Sure enough, the rope became trapped under the bulldozer-like vehicle and I was drawn towards the burying device. If I hadn't been able to release it I would be dead, without question. When I surfaced, he angrily declared he would rather have a dead diver in the water than someone surfacing unexpectedly. I have been terribly anti- HSE, not to mention ropes, since then".

Peter is intensely environmentally aware. He eats fish, but not reef fish "it seems a bit of a nonsense to go filming them then come back and eat them". He also invests clean-up time on a reef before filming, clearing discarded fishing lines and ropes "it's amazing how much rubbish comes from boats, often operated by ex-fishermen who regard the sea as somewhere to dump rubbish. They don't have an understanding of the reef or what we want to see on it, because they don't see it".

It would be forgivable if this outstanding and uniquely talented man were to have a sense of arrogance or conceit about his many pioneering and unprecedented achievements. Not so. Peter is a true genius, but still more than happy to share his knowledge and discuss any topic with openness and generosity. "I'm just a chap who is learning how to take excellent pictures underwater" he says. It sounds falsely modest, but he really means it.

Study Via an Online Digital Photography Course

Creativity will be discovered in the most effective way by any online digital photography course for all those who are serious about going after a career in the art arena. In fact, getting name and fame along with financial stability is exactly what absolutely everyone thinks of. Being a virtually risk free business, photography is a field that is based on the expertise of professionals in conjunction with determination and effort. Gone are the days when individuals needed to rely on the employment opportunities. In fact, you'll be able to select your business timings and working inclinations as per your convenience. Studying any one of the professional courses will likely be of immense help to you.

Attend a Digital Photography Class

Almost all of the reputed institutes provide latest programs on digital photography by conducting workshops in select places. As an enthusiast, you need to attend this type of workshop that can help you in understanding about the positives and negatives of understanding digital photography. You can start attending online digital photography class soon after getting convinced about the features. Keep in mind that anyone can develop your abilities just by learning in addition to practicing a profession. By picking an online course, you will get the benefit of saving time and studying at the comfort of your home or office.

Sharpen Your Abilities by Studying Online

Professional courses are ever more offered by several institutions and online digital photography course is just one among them. But, when you begin attending this sort of course, you'll be left astonished to know about the facts you have been ignorant of till date. You could benefit a whole lot by pairing work exposure to the newly gained knowledge. Many an expert have gained in this way so you can also be one of them. You can readily reference other websites so you can stay updated with the present trends in the field of photography.

Turn Your Passion into Profession

Online digital photography class can be attended by everyone who's motivated with a passion to excel in this field. For almost all recognized photographers, it all starts with a favorite pastime or even a passion that happens to be their actual profession at some or other point of time. Each class will be held with advanced course material that targets content that is meant to greatly improve your understanding about photographic skills. The web based course helps anyone who has got a hectic agenda and can't enroll in regular classes.

Best Way of Getting Familiar with Photography

Picking an online digital photography course that satisfies your needs is something that you should do first. Evaluating this element needs a lot of time as you've got to undergo diverse courses provided by different institutes. You can find courses at novice level which can be finished in couple of weeks. If you are still a starter, then you need to choose such kind of courses. However, you can find expert courses for individuals who are already into the business to ensure that more knowledge could possibly be developed accordingly.

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

jmmv-foto-digital2010.mpg

Video zum FotoDigital Fotoseminar vom Jugendmedienverband MV eV in Güstrow vom 16. bis 18. April 2010. Kamera und Schnitt von Marco Herzog



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwalB0a-bg8&hl=en

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Image Archiving - HDR and RAW Formats

HDR and RAW formats are effectively digital files that are used only for storage.  Neither format provides a useful image for purposes of display.  So which is better for archiving my high dynamic range files.  It pays to know how these storage or capture formats differ in order to make an informed decision.

In an earlier article I wrote that a single RAW file captures around 10EV in dynamic range while a 32-bit HDR file captures a virtually unlimited tonal range through the application of floating point luminance values.  This translates into around 76 orders of magnitude in dynamic range, far exceeding the luminance found on even the brightest sunny day.  HDR files capture a true high dynamic range.

Because the HDR file is lossless, one might think that it provides a better storage solution than a RAW file.  Perhaps. The problem lies, however, in the simple fact that the creation of an HDR file from a RAW file depends on the conversion software one uses.  Merging three to five RAW files into a single HDR merged file will give different results depending on the software one uses and even between different versions of the same software as later versions generally provide more sophisticated results.  Merging algorithms are proprietary each having different working thresholds for pixel conversion; each algorithm, therefore, produces a slightly different result.

In the final analysis, archiving RAW files as source images is superior to archiving HDR merged files, however, RAW files are subject to degradation over time so I recommend that one use a redundant backup system.  I use an off-site backup as well as backing up my RAW and HDR files on DVDs.  While RAW source file storage and backup is ideal, I also recommend that one store converted HDR merged files, especially if one works with a single vendor's software.  I work with Photomatix Pro exclusively so I find that storing my HDR merged files as well as the RAW source files provides me with an ideal solution.  I don't believe one can take too many precautions when storing important image files.

All that being said, remember that the converted HDR file is not useful as an image file for purposes of display.  Displaying a 32-bit HDR file on a low dynamic range computer monitor one finds that the displayed image has apparent areas where the highlights are completely blown and the shadows are completely clipped; details of the HDR image are not apparent in the display of the HDR merged file on a standard computer monitor.  Tone mapping of the HDR merged file is necessary, not only for viewing the details on your monitor but is also a requirement if one wishes to print the merged image.  Tone mapping, in its simplest terms, is a way to convert the 32-bit HDR merged file into a 16-bit TIFF file or an 8-bit JPEG file that is now useful as an image for viewing and printing. 

Monday, September 13, 2010

Bali exotic photo workshop / e-Fotografija.si

e-Fotografija Exotic Photo Workshop - Bali island Indonesia



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FahzWRTiuCg&hl=en

Why Printing on Canvas is So Special and Popular?

First of all it is worth saying that any digital image printed on canvas is much higher grade than a usual photo. Actually canvas printing represents the highest possible quality. Due to up-to-date technology high quality canvas, vivid and lifelike ink colours any photo transformed onto canvas can look as much real as a lively description of the image. In addition paper photographs size is limited, with canvas it is extremely wide range of size possibilities. On top of everything, life expectancy of a canvas picture print is several times higher in comparison with a photo and moreover you can afford it. The result you get is worth the effort. It only takes one's desire to do it. There are many areas of our life where canvas picture prints can play a significant role.

Home gallery

That is the only salvation for people who dream about home gallery but possessing genuine paintings is more than they can afford. Framed canvas is just great and they look almost the same with genuine art unless you don't compare the prices. You can create a little art gallery at your home and the money you pay for it would be still reasonable.

Nowadays canvas pictures are even widely seen in art galleries and in many museums, because putting art photos on canvas makes great impression on viewers.

In case you don't dream about personal home gallery, you can convert some of your best photos onto canvas just to obtain a perfect atmosphere.

For gifting people

Sometimes people beat their brains out trying to solve the problem of gifting. A lovely canvas print will meet everybody's wishes, because it is beautiful, romantic and practical, judging by its longevity. The only thing which is up to you is to pick the right image for it. Also it can become a desired gift for you.

A good way to advertise

Advertisement plays a major role and your production needs sales promotion. Using outdoor advertising enables to draw attention of public at large. Canvas print allows playing with colours, images, and you can choose your own way of sending messages through the artifact. It is rather affordable; cost of the canvas photos depends on the size of the image.

But remember the process of printing a photo on a canvas can be made simple only if you work with an experienced and helpful service provider. To climb success

If you are a professional photographer and like interesting new techniques, you would probably put your photos on canvas and would not regret it. Also it is a good idea to expand your business. You can offer two great services instead of one: photographers and photos on canvas conversion. Just stuff your workshop with the professional device and start transforming photos to canvas. If you offer phenomenal canvas photo prints with simply outstanding quality you will make great strides, because plenty artists, businessmen and ordinary people are amazed by canvas. Go ahead and make your choice. Good luck!

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Photography Success Without School

What I learned from a mentor that enabled me to go from an amateur photographer to a professional portrait photographer in very specific steps is something I like to pass on. Rather than spending countless hours in classes learning every possible detail, I learned just the necessary specifics and now I work out of my home full time and have been in business for over 17 years, but I started out with practically nothing; just an interest in photography and the need to earn more money.

For one thing, my mentor taught me the Three Classic Elements to produce "salable portraits."

"Salable" is an industry term every photographer quickly becomes familiar with to distinguish between the everyday reality of making money versus creating those "artistic competition" or "award winning prints" which don't earn the money.

I've been in the business for over 17 years now and I'm still amazed that:

People don't buy the award winning prints that you see wearing many of the ribbons at professional photography conventions.

When my clients are faced with the choice of buying an artistic pose of their child being demure and not looking directly into the camera or buying a pose smiling close-up straight into the camera, they buy the smiling close-up every time.

Not very original, but I'm telling you now so take note:

Happy people whose faces you can readily see are the most salable prints.

They'll never tell you this at a photography workshop, seminar, Annual Convention or at a photography institute because their job is to create award winning photo artists rather than people whom simply make a living, but... if you haven't learned all the fancy lighting techniques, then you've saved time because the most important thing about light is having enough to keep the face out of the shadows.

People prefer any kind of light, as long as there is enough of it to light the face and eyes so you can get a good look at the person!

The quality of light people prefer for portraits is soft light, whether it be from an artificial source like a flash umbrella or a natural source from the sky at sunset, but other than a soft quality of light they want enough of it to SEE the face of the person you're photographing, even if it is a flat almost straight on technique.

You may not win any competitions or awards this way, but if you get plenty of light on the faces you'll create salable prints.

This leads me to talk about fill flash. There are times outdoors when you'll need a flash on your camera to fill in dark shadow areas mostly in the eye sockets. Just use one f stop less flash than the existing ambient light calls for. That's enough light to fill the shadows and don't worry about not lugging around a portable umbrella to get the perfect modeling technique.

My mentor is right again: there is no change in the sale. The customer pays for well lit faces, not perfect modeling. I've tried it both ways and the customer buys the same amount of pictures in the same sizes no matter what you do.

Element number Two: Body Positioning.

This is a little more detailed area, but it is important, believe me.

My basic education from my mentor began with the same advice I'll pass on to you:

You should rarely photograph anyone straight on.

The exception to this rule will be for family and large groups, which for reasons of body placement will often break this rule. But for individuals or smaller groups of people this rule applies.

Now, when you're not just photographing a head and shoulders close-up you'll have to understand other aspects of body positioning that makes people want to buy their pictures. Hands. They should always be turned slightly so they are seen from the edge with fingers together, or hide the hands altogether behind your subject or somebody else next to them. Never position hands straight on with open fingers.

Simply put, anything that minimizes how much hand you see works to make it a better portrait. This is always more flattering in a portrait and you'll see they are the ones people buy.

Crossing legs at the ankles refines the pose and minimizes this area of the body making it more appealing.

Look at it this way, what's less of a distraction: two legs leading to two ankles leading to two feet -- or two legs blending into one ankle section with blended feet? Surely it's the latter.

When standing, one cannot simply cross their ankles unless they have something to lean against, so I will have one foot in front of the other in such a way that they taper into one general unit. Have them place their weight on the back leg (remember, they are at a slight 3/4 angle) and bring the front leg forward and slightly tilt the foot to face out toward the camera.

Whenever I'd show my mentor my portraits that I was just unsure of, it was these recurring themes that he patiently pointed out to me.

As I began to look for these simple things during my portrait sessions, my pictures got better!

I can't stress enough how basic, but important, it is to watch for these details.

I have people come to me who went to the contract photographer for their High School Senior yearbook portrait and disliked their picture. They want me to take one that they can proudly give out to friends and family. Usually the problem with the pictures I've seen is that the photography school graduate "intern" who works for the contract photographer took the photo without paying attention to some minor detail. I get it right and my reputation grows from "fixing" the contract photographer's mistake.

The techniques for salable body positioning are what you look for in any pose you try whether close-up or full body.

When photographing people full body standing, seated or reclining on the ground, noticing body angle, hands and feet is the way to "fine tune" your portrait and distinguish it from just a "snapshot".

Lastly, I must share my favorite body positioning tool that makes it so easy to make a better portrait than someone who doesn't really know what they're doing: the head tilt.

A woman alone tilts her head just slightly in either direction to make a more stunning portrait. A man's head can stay straight up or tilt slightly away in the opposite direction from his most forward shoulder but never back towards his most forward shoulder.

Element number Three: Salable Composition

There are many compositional techniques in many books, but it doesn't take all that knowledge to make portrait compositions that are what the typical consumer considers good enough to call professional.

Once you know what the consumer considers salable, you will be able to reproduce it again and again for other clients. You also will thank me for saving you from thinking that in order to be good enough to sell portrait photography you have to create grand artistic images. You just have to know what works and be able to repeat it for the friends of your clients whom will be getting your business cards by way of referral.

When photographing one individual person, it's so simple I don't think you need too much input for that. In fact, I believe you know the naive simplicity with which you thought "hey, I can do this for a living" after taking some portraits of a friend or family member. Yet it truly gets challenging when there is more than one person involved.

I know of a local professional who has referred family portrait clients to me as she specializes in children outdoors. Do you know what that really means? It means she's intimidated by having to do groupings, but that's okay, most people are.

So here's the rule of salable composition:

Keep everybody's head at a different level.

Like I told you, I didn't have a fancy College degree so my mentor had to keep it simple enough for me. In some cases, you will recognize that it's not possible, but if you do your best to stagger head height from individual to individual, you will be creating professional looking images.

You will stand some people, seat some in chairs, seat some on the arms of chairs, seat some on the floor, kneel some, crouch some, lay some down, but you will achieve staggered head heights and salable compositions.

Tip heads inward toward one another for unity when photographing a family group.

Note that men are usually positioned higher than women.

No, I'm not aware of being a chauvinist pig, but I am aware that this is what usually sells. Not the images where mom's higher than dad but where dad (even if he's actually shorter!) is positioned just a head or so above mom.

Once you understand the rules, you can bend them where you need to in order to make a portrait work; but people will see that you know what you're doing as you position them for a good composition and especially when they see your finished work.

My mentor critiqued my work time and time again over several years as I brought images and questions to him. It almost always boiled down to my understanding these most simple aspects that I've shared with you.

I know it's not customary to learn photography on such simplistic terms, but trust me; I've had exposure over the years to many different photography educational venues such as classes, workshops, conventions, guest speakers, lectures, teaching videos and books but never have any of the teachers been willing to simply say "look, there are just a few rules to follow and people will be happy with their pictures". Never have I received more helpful advice than I received from my mentor.

I guess if I could sum up the philosophy he embodied in word form I'd say it was rather like this:

"Not everybody wants a masterpiece. Most people just want to remember their loved ones as happy. It's not hard to capture that with your camera, just don't stand them in hard sunlight, standing in a straight line facing straight toward the camera."